26-30.11.2006

On Sunday, Tiina and myself went to indulge in some local Mtwara culture and go watch the big football game involving Manchester United vs Chelsea in the “cinema”. The reason for the name is because they also show some “Bollywood” movies when they are not showing football. We planned to arrive early in order to get a good sit, although this proved pointless as the place was packed already 45 minutes before kick – off. If i didn't know any better I swear I could have been at the stadium!

We went to the back room but couldn't pass in the door way as there was just to many people already there, so we went back to the front room and luckily for us a kind person made some room, and we got ourselves a sitting place, albeit the guy was a Manchester United supporter, but we can't all be perfect!

As we waited for the game to behind hoards of people kept on coming in and walking down to the back room, from where we just came. We were wondering where are they going because they didn't come back. I have no idea how there squeezed into the room. The front room was already nearly full but there was still some kneeling room on the floor, enough for one or two people.

The heat in the room was unbearable most of the time and on occasions the front door would open just long enough for a blast of cold air to come in... NICE! The three ceiling fans where not helping at all.

There was a lot of talking and jeering going on between nearly everyone there, and at times they would look at Tiina and I to see if we are laughing at what they are saying. Sometimes I wonder whether they come for the football or just to have a laugh with friends and locals there, either way it was a good experience. As the game progressed and Man Utd dominating it came as no surprise to see them score, although there was about a 5 second delay in celebrations among the local supporters as they weren't sure whether it was a goal or not. A goal it was and the guy who was so kind in giving us some room jumped up and down nearly taking our heads off as he wiped his arms around in celebration for their goal and continued for the rest of the game to make strange noises whenever Man Utd attacked.

When half time came nearly all the people left to stand outside to get some fresh air we decided to stay and keep our seats only to witness that people would sit back down in their usual place, even those standing would be again standing in the same spot and not trying to take a free seat. The second half was good, Chelsea dominated more or less the whole period and it was no surprise either to see them equalise. What was noticeable was that there was less Chelsea supporters than United, surprising given that Drogba plays for Chelsea.

Midway through the second half the electricity went off, so we sat there in total darkness for some time until the owners put the generator on and restarted the digibox, but during the blackout no goals came although everyone was shouting that there had been a goal...

The game was good, as I am a Liverpool supporter I wasn't sure who to go for. I thought the game would end in a draw before it began but as I dislike Manchester United even more than Chelsea I wouldn't have minded it Chelsea won. But in the end if finished in draw one apiece.

Monday we vistied the village to choose more girls for the FC Vito team inMadimba. Three games where played in total, in which I referred for two of them. During one of the games it rained quite heavy. As the Finnish girls hadn't much interest in football they kept themselves busy by taking photos and annukka taught them the Labaduu song and “the lion in the jungle” which was funny to see all the children surrounding her while she danced to the songs. But the children and some of the adults loved it which is the main thing.

After the games had been played all the judges gathered in a classroom to decide which girls would progress to the next stages. All the judges had written down the names of the girls they thought were good and after all the votes had been gathered we had a final total of 52 girls from the three regions.

Tuesday we went to Likonde without chigo as he went with the students to their schools. It didn't go very well as the headmaster was the stand in translator and sports teacher for the day. He did't understand at all what we were saying, despite showing him examples many times. In the end he blamed the children as they where standard one. After about 30 minutes of repetition with little understanding we left to come back again next week.

Wednesday, we intended to go to Mikindani but due to the failure of any Daladala to show up within a certain time period we where until to go. Instead we went to Armani a local pre-primary school in Mtwara. We arrived to play some games just before the rain started. While it was raining we moved indoors and thought them some games – guess the word (swahili), numbers, alphabet and annukka taught them the “lion in the jungle” song which was translated from Finnish to English to Swahili, but the children understood the meaning in the end.

19 - 24.11.2006

During the last week, Sunday 19th, a group of us went for a snorkelling trip to the beach behind Southern Cross in Shangani as it was a low tide we where able to walk our further in order to see more of the good things. As it was so hot it was nice to be able to relax and have a dip in the water from time to time to cool off.

In the evening time Chigo, Jon and myself went to watch Bandari play Yanga which is the biggest home game of the year for them. It was the biggest crowd of the year but the match in itself was meaningless as Bandari were already relegated and Yanga had already won the championship but the game was not without incident and finished 3 – 3, highest goal scoring game I have seen involving Bandari. In the first half Bandari played really well and were worth the lead going into the break, one goal coming via a great free kick from the edge of the box into the top corner. In the second half Yanga dominated and in the end Bandari were lucky to win as Yanga had a goal ruled out which would have made it 3 – 4 to the visitors.

On Monday and Tuesday we visited Likonde school teaching sports to them we also started to distribute pens to the best behaved children for the lesson. Even some simple like one pen really puts a big smile on the faces of the children, so it is something we will continue to do for the rest of our time here.

The reason for going to Likonde twice was because there are national exams on at the moment so we were unable to visit Mlimani. The following day we sent out to visit the Wedneday school in Mikindani. We left the house at 7.30 in the morning and arrived in Mikindani just after 9, due to the Daladala, it was decided we would talk to the bus station and get it from there as it is very uncomfortable standing and be squashed by all the people. We had to wait a while until the Daladala filled up in order to leave. Once in Mikindani we began the walk up the hill to the school as we thought it would be good for the Finnish students to see the school. We arrived eventually at the school to be told that they had National exams as well, so no teaching! So frustrating. After taking some pictures we walked back to the bus stand and went back to Mtwara.

This week we have been playing a lot of floorball in Shangani, it has been good to play again regularly and also that we are getting more people playing also. On Thursday and Friday 24^th we played Mzungu – Bantu game as we have a good number of Mzungus now in Mtwara, we lost on the Thursday by one goal, but won the Friday game thankfully 15 – 12. We played for nearly an hour and a half non stop on Friday so it was great fun.

On Thursday night we were invited to Mikindani for a going away celebration of one Mzungu here from Belgium she has been doing her Masters which has involved travelling over and back in 3 month stints for two years so her time has come to an end. Her had arranged a food buffet for all of us. There were quite many Mzungus present that night. I didn't know Mikindani had some many of them.

On Friday SDA had a road trip to a “nearby” village called Nanymba, it is time now to start getting the FC Vito girls team ready for going to Finland next year so we where there to pick out some fo the girls that looked good and played well over the two games. It was really hot when we arrived there and unfortunately I was the designated referee for the games. I think everyone from the village came out to watch what was going on and sadly some of the on lookers where laughing at the girls when they made a mistake this happened a lot of times. It was something really annoying because no doubt the girls heard the laughing which wouldn't have made them feel any better.

When the games where over we had taken along small gifts for all the girls that played. Thanks to our now near endless supply of pens we gave all the girls four pens each which made them really happy and also a few pens for the teachers to thank them for there good work. Although they still requested sports equipment and other things for the work they have done.

The drive back to Mtwara was quite as most of us where tired after the long day, more trips next week to pick out more girls. Hopefully the girls can go a few steps better and claim the gold medal in the Helsinki Cup!

18.11.2006 - Kanda's Wedding

On the 18.11 it was a special day for SDA our Kanda was getting married. Although we had tried our best to change his mind he was insistent on doing it. In the morning of the wedding, Annukka went to the hair dressers to get extensions and plaits put in, it some pain and four hours she was ready.

We made our way to Kanda's place near midday where all the women where gathered in the back garden surrounded with pots and pans and food on the carpets. There was some serious food making in progress. Apparently I had entered a no man zone but was allowed to stay as I am a Mzungu. The men where at the front of the house, sitting relaxing in the shade. The house was nicely decorated in the front of the house with various decorations hanging from the ceiling.

After some time the food was ready and we all made our way inside to get something to eat, there was so much pilau on offer it was ridiculous but nice! After the food was eaten it was time to make our way to the church. The daladala had arrived so it was to take everyone to the church, there was also a pick up truck for the young boys that had gathered around the place.

On the way to the church there was a lot of signing involved in the daladala as everyone was getting into the spirit of the day. The groom along with the best man made their way in the wedding car to the church where upon arrival made their way to the side church to wait until the bride arrived. The

rest of us waited outside in the shade until the wedding car came back with the bride.

The groom and bride met outside the church and then went together to the side chapel and waited until the guests had found their seats. After some time they made their way to the altar, it was then we realised it was a double wedding. Both couple made their way to the front of the altar with the singing choir leading the way.

As the service was all in Swahili I don't know much of what the priest was saying but during his speeches a lot of guests started shouting and singing in agreement. Sometimes the priest was stopped mid sentence because the choir had broken into a song. On another occasion one of the choir boys was banging on his drum while one of the guests started dancing in the aisle. When the bride and groom had signed the registration papers and made their way off the altar a group of women surrounded them both while a women started rolling around on the floor in front of the couple.

After the church part the bride and groom made their way to the beach for the sunset pictures. Others, including myself, went to get something to drink and wait around until the reception. As we are getting used to the African way of things we knew that the reception would not start on time, in fact we arrived one and a half hours later than originally scheduled and we were still early, the reception started around 8.30 a slight delay from the intended time of 6.

Upon arrival the reception hall didn't have electricity and the place was lit up with only one light bulb plus a power flash the camera man was using. Unfortunately due to the power cuts the drinks were warm which didn't help on such a way night. I initially thought the coupon system was a good idea for the guests however when the bar ran out of drinks later on in the night, even though quite many of us still had coupons, the idea of the coupon system failed.

The happily married couple made their entrance behind the brides maids and ring bearer and accompanied by the maid of honour and the best man. After some time introductions where made of the individual families who they are.

Throughout the whole reception it seemed that when ever anyone gave a speech music would be played and everyone would get up and dance around for a while and promptly sit down when the music stopped playing. After some more dancing and singing, it was time for cutting the cake. With Sophia giving a piece to kanda and the best man and Kanda giving a piece to Sophia and the maid of honour. It was also nice to see the young children giving each other a piece of cake. The layers of the cake where then divided with a piece to either family from their new in law respectively.

This was quickly followed with taking food, although nobody collected our food coupon. What was on offer seems to be the basic food offer – ring, chips, chicken, potatoes, salad, meat, chilli sauce and without the use of any cutlery.

When everyone had eaten it was time to give the gifts, we informed the MC that we had a special request and we would be making a speech. I said a few words about the wedding and told the wedding couple about the gifts they would receive. As the gifts are so big and heavy to carry we decided we would give them the user manuals instead so that way they can figure it out for themselves what they have received. Chigo translated what I was saying and added some words of his own. After the gifts had all been given more music was played and everyone danced around in a circle. The night was coming to an end and the newly weds left for their wedding night lodge.

16.11.2006 - Jennifer's Birthday

Last Thursday 16^th of November we had a birthday party for our host mother, Jennifer. We had been planning for the week what we were going to do and basically it came down to whether we had electricity, which is no guarantee. In the end we decided, the night before, to have the party at home with a small gathering of friends and Mzungus.

The day could not have started any better, killing the rooster! What a relief and needless to say I get an extra hours sleep now every morning. The rooster was the main course for the night. During the day the house girl was preparing food while the rest of us where out buying the gifts for the evening time, tidying the house and buying sodas and beers for the guests (although that came later in the evening).

When we arrived back home in the evening time all the women where in the kitchen getting the food ready, including Annukka. I am trying to get accustomed to the African habits so I let the women handle things in the kitchen. While watching and taking pictures, our host dad had arrived on the scene and said that while the ladies where busy we (men) might as well do something. He said that we will go to the local bar. I thought that we were going there to collect the beers for the night but found out differently upon arrival when we sat down and started ordering beers... Yes the African way! Some of the neighbours where at the Kiosk/bar so we sat with them and talked about a whole range of things. After some time (30 minutes after the party had started) we made our way back to the house taking beers and bananas with us... we couldn't come empty handed! So we entered through the front door so the guests could see what we had bought.

The party started shortly afterwards, although there was no camera man this time due to other engagements. Bright was the Master of Ceremonies for the evening and after the introductions of the guests the party got under way. It started by congratulating the birthday girl followed by reading out her CV. The cutting of cake proceeded this and a piece was shared amongst all the guests while singing a local Tanzania song( Dada, dada, dada huyo...)

This was followed by having some food which was really good. The rooster in particular was excellent. While people enjoyed their food, birthday cake and beverages we listened to some local music. After everyone had finished eating the MC called on toasting the birthday girl with our drinks, so we all danced around the living room offering a toast. This was followed with the giving of the gifts which again involved dancing around the living room while handing the gift to the birthday girl.

When this had finished and everyone was relaxed the living room was turned into a dance floor and music was played louder this time, after the MC and birthday girl (A.K.A – Husband and wife) had opened the floor the rest gathered on the floor to dance the night away, unfortunately it was such a hot night that most of us could only manage the one song. We sat down afterwards and enjoyed the rest of the beverages which were on offer.

A good night and even better that we had electricity for the whole event.

11.11.2006

On the 11^th of November a group of us, Mzungus went for a day trip to the Ruvuma river it was a great opportunity to see another part of Mtwara, perhaps see some animals and get to see the Northern side of Mozambique. We started off early in the morning or at least intended to only for African timing to once again play a role. In total there was eight of us who made the journey and we had hired the driver for the day and paid the petrol also.

We eventually set off around eight in the morning collecting the others as we made our way slowly out of Mtwara urban. We all had taken some food with us so a small picnic would be taken once we reach the river bank. The weather was very hot even for so early in the morning, and sun tan lotion was constantly being applied throughout the day in order to avoid getting burnt but the strong sun.

We opened the top of the land rover so as to allow as much air to get in as possible and also to be able to stand up and take pictures as we went along and saw various interesting things. Once the seating and standing arrangements had been arranged we made our way for the river and passed many happy screaming children along the way all wanting a wave from the Mzungus.

After some time we arrived at the border control office and none of us had taken our passports with us as we were not leaving the country only going down to the see the border. After our driver did some talking and also Maaike (a volunteer doctor) we were aloud to pass through without any problems. As we were leaving the area a local man came and asked us if we would like to rent a boat for some time and go out on the river, I was unaware of this option so it sounded like a good idea, although I had some reservations as Hippos can be quite aggressive and the river also contains crocodiles. Once we arrived at the bank we had a small picnic while we negotiated a price with the man for the use of the boat and a driver. Although they were eager to get a good price we eventually came to an agreement in which all where satisfied.

The boat was ready and we set off unsure of what to expect but it didn't take long until we say a bloat of hippos together in the lake about nine of them just bathing and relaxing in the water. We kept our distance so as not to disturb them. We made our way to the peninsula and had a small walk around on some very hot sand. Once back on the boat we made our way slowly back where we started. We went closer this time to the hippos which they didn't like and quickly went under the water only for one to appear quite close to the boat. The locals where not keen to see their boat turned over so we made a quick escape to keep our distance after some time the hippos reappeared together when we where further away.

Once on land again we took a small walk along the river bank to see the houses, although the weather at this stage was very hot so most of us took shelter in the shade and had some food and drank plenty of water. It also gave us some time to enjoy the sites and the strange feeling that we where standing in Tanzania but looking across into Mozambique. After everyone had returned from the walk we made our way slowly back to Mtwara, although we decided on the way back to have a quick stop in Mikindani.

In mikindani we all had a cold drink and relaxed on the upper terrace enjoying the site and the shade from the sun. After some time we decided to spend more time here and ordered some food. While waiting for it to be prepared some people took a walk to the old boma while others stayed in Ten Degrees enjoying the cold drinks.

Once the food arrived we all ate quietly as we were quite tired from the heat of the sun and hungry so the chips and deep fried calamari was just what the doctor ordered. After we had allowed the food to settle we then made our way back again to Mtwara. It was then we realised that our attempts of avoiding getting sun burnt was to no avail as most of our faces and other parts of our body where quite red.

It was an enjoyable day and we were all very tired once the evening had arrived. Thankfully we had electricity when we arrived back to the house so a cold shower felt great after the days heat.

5.11.2006

After a quiet enough week at work our weekend was very exciting. On Friday night we went out with our host parents for a drink or two in a nearby kiosk/bar. While walking there it was the first time I noticed bats flying around in the sky! Maybe the full moon had something to do with it. Then Bright casually said yes they sleep in one of the mango trees in the garden! Luckily they are not after Mzungus but rather mosquitoes so they are friendly ones. After jokingly asking Bright are they any bats that go after cockroaches he gave me some special chalk, designed by the Chinese (so it must be good), that will keep the cockroaches away. The idea is that you draw lines on the doors or on the ground and the dust from the chalk effects the cockroach and kills them. I was half tempted to put some on myself but thought better of it. Unfortunately Bright only gave us one stick of chalk, hopefully that is enough and now our once brown bedroom door is covered in white lines and hopefully the cockroaches can read because I wrote “Stop go back” on the ground.

On Saturday we relaxed in the Finnish housing project area by going for a swim. We had hoped to play some tennis but we only had one tennis racket, then we thought we could play table tennis as we have the rackets, but no balls! We done a little work out in the gym and then went to the pool to relax and read some magazines and saw Ari’s face in one of the Suomen kuvalehtis! I was wondering why there is so many of the same magazine here. In the evening time we were invited to a house/disco party. Upon arriving we found out we were the only ones invited by our two neighbour wazungus. We had some food and they told us that the hospital students have organised a party for the new students so we are invited go to, a bit of a surprise but along we went anyway. It was good fun, the music was loud and the locals had their own style of dancing ; )

On Sunday we had planned to relax go on a bike trip around the back roads of Mtwara. In the morning our host mother Jennifer said that there is a wedding in their church today and that we are invited. This was the first time we had heard about it and the wedding was due to start in 3 hours. We went along to the church as it is more or less open for everyone to visit. The ceremony was quite long with the people that were taking part in the church walking really slowly to the altar. The wedding was due to begin at 11 but due to African timing it started probably at 12.30. During the ceremony there was a lot of singing and shouting from the guests, AMEN!!!! One funny incident happened during the ceremony when the uncle of the bride was invited to the front to say some words regarding his niece and the future in law. The only thing was that he had forgotten the name of the groom and had to be reminded! Not a good sign for the future son in law!

After about two hours in the church we left for home to relax until the reception, during the church service we were told that they had some invitations for us to join the evening session. The MC had informed us that the reception will start exactly at four o’clock, if anyone keeps time in Tanzania. Bright informed us that nobody keeps the time here and how right he was as the evening session didn’t start until at least 17.30.

Only those that contributed to the wedding, that is, have given money to the couple, are invited to the reception. After another slow walk to their seats the MC was eager to take over the show as a result of the two microphones which he had in his hand. The MC was talking through out the reception telling jokes and welcoming not only the locals but also the foreigners (Wazungus) saying that it was an internationally wedding also because the groom is from Malawi. After some family introductions and welcoming, it was time for the cake cutting which came before the meal. The cake is divided among the family with different layers going to different families. But nothing is giving to the guests. Also the bride and maid of honour when giving a piece of cake to the groom and best man respectively they must curtsy as a sign of respect for them. Also when the bride was giving a piece of cake to her new mother in law she went down on her knees and handed the cake to her while on her knees then stood up when she took the cake, although the groom didn’t have to go down on his knees.

After this the wedding couple gave out same sweets to all the couples for their contribution in which the MC continued to talk throughout the event telling the DJ to stop the music, put in music louder, lower, change the music etc. When the sweets were distributed we where then invited for food. There was so much food available that the plate was not big enough for everything and interestingly we had to use our hands for it as there was no cutlery available. But we are well skilled in eating with our hands now.

After the food was eaten it was time for the giving the wedding gifts to the couple. Due to our last minute notice about our participation in the wedding we quickly bought a card and put some money inside. It was well organized how the presents giving should be done. There was a basket for cards and loose money and the gifts where giving to couple. I am not sure what was happening but the MC was calling certain people up to give the presents and certain people would then make a speech about what present they are giving and talk a little about the couple. This of course was preceded by a long walk in from the front door with the gift. After people had given their gifts they left while others stayed around until the very end.

One thing that was different from this wedding and European weddings was that there was not a lot of dancing, but maybe this has something to do with the church as it was a Seven Day Adventists wedding. With Kanda getting married in two weeks which is a catholic wedding it will be interesting to see the difference, although I am sure the time keeping will be the same.

3.11.2006 - In the Kitchen

With the boss this week in Songea for his wedding send off we could relax and take it easy in the office, well not really. We have some tournaments coming up and some planning for the sports day and regional sports tournament which we have been doing this week.

We managed to finish the storeroom after emptying all the boxes and putting the clothes and sports equipment onto the shelves it took some time as there was a lot of boxes and quite much organising needed to be done.

Recently we have been eating some mangos as this is now the season for them. They are really delicious to taste but the difficulty is afterwards when it traps between your teeth, some hard work is required with the toothpick to remove the mango.

The electricity problem has unfortunately returned again. After having it more or less for one week straight we now don't have it at all. Bizzarly a couple of nights ago, all of our neighbours had electricity and we still didn't, i think they is a conspriacy against the Mzungu!

The temperature is steadily rising each day but becomes most notably at night time as it is really hot when trying to sleep, fortunately a cold shower before bed helps the situation but if water runs out then we'll have to refer to the finnish summer house style of showering – bucket and cup, while dodging the cockroaches!

Last week we took to cooking in the kitchen, it was the first time for me as Annukka is better in the kitchen than I am. We cooked, or at least tried to cook our version of pancakes, the first task was to find the ingredients then trying to cook on a uneven frying pan and adjusting the temperature from underneath as the charcoal burns away. In the end we managed to make 6 or 7 good ones in about 3 hours, a record i am sure for something. The next morning we were firmly put in our places and the Aunt who is living with us had made a whole pile of ”pancakes” in what i am sure was a fraction of time that we took.

We eventually found out later that the word for pancake in swahili it Kitumbua which means rice cake. The word for our pancakes is Chapati wa maji. Anyway it was good fun to prepare something in the kitchen and we had a bit of an audience when doing it. Always eager to impress I took to flipping the pancake in the frying pan, luckily it didn't land on the ground but back on the frying pan... i didn't want to spend another three hours making more pancakes!