Tuesday, March 20, 2007

Safari - Part 2

The train journey:
The next part of our mini safari would see us travel to Zambia by train. The tazara train left on Tuesday from DAR and would take two days if everything was going to plan. Having purchased our tickets in advance we made sure we had a place in first class which was 55,000 Tsh (students discounts are no longer accepted on the Tanzania side). The waiting lounge was packed, most of them going to Mbeya.

It’s a strange feeling waking up and sleeping on the train for two days. The berth we had was basic. Four beds, small table and window. We would be sharing with two men from Zambia. The ticket conductor came round to check tickets and returned some time later as there seemed to be some problem. Apparently men and women have to sleep in different cabins although the lady selling us the tickets at the station never mentioned this. Obviously we didn’t want to be separated but would have to accept it if they found a good alternative place for Annukka. They mentioned that there was one free cabin if we both wanted to go there. We told him that this is a good idea and we would take it. Of course it meant that we would have to pay something for it as there were two other beds in the cabin free, so we would have to pay for those in order to buy out the cabin. I said to the conductor that if the cabin is free then why can’t you just give us the room. But he made an excuse that maybe someone might come on the train later. Although I am sure they already knew how many people were going to be in first class. We didn’t of course take that option and the conductor said he would be back later on… but he never returned and Annukka got to stay where she was.

The train journey went as smooth as one could hope with no incidents to report. Apparently it was the first time the train has been on time for a long time, our Zambian passengers told us. The food provided was quite good although I initially thought the food was included in the price but it wasn’t so much extra to pay for it. If we wanted food could be delivered to the cabin but we usually ate at the restaurant carriage. The scenery was amazing all the way there and the mountains were fantastic to look at. Unfortunately we went through Selous Game Park at night so we didn’t see any animals. At night time it was cold so blankets where needed we reached heights of over 1,400 metres. Our Zambian passengers told us to be careful at night as usually at stops it’s when thieves come on to the train and rob goods from passengers. So they kindly asked us not to go out of the cabin when we were at a stop. There was also a small latch on the inside of the door which when put down it stopped the door from opening. The reason for this is because some thieves have replica copies for the door locks so they can be easily opened. We didn’t have any problems and we never heard of any one else that had any while on the train.

Child ran along the train at stops asking for empty bottles and bars of soap. At Mbeya a lot of people were selling goods for very cheap. Just before the border crossing men came on exchanging Zambian Kwachas for Tanzania Shillings although the rate wasn’t great it was the only way we could get the local money for the eventual bus ride to Lusaka. I found one money exchange at the train station prior to departure; this was the only place to buy Zambian Kwachas in town.

Once over the border immigration came to issue us with visas. Once again Irish people don’t have to pay for a visa to Zambian but Finnish do. I was a bit confused as the immigration officer asked me how long I wanted my visa to be valid for. Normally they just stamp it and the time is set, not negotiable. In the end I took it for one month although only really needed it for a few days.

At 10 am Thursday morning we reached our final destination and made our way to catch a bus to Lusaka which was still another two hours away. The journey continues….

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