21-23.01.2007 - Safari to Newala

Safari to Newala and Tandanhimba 21^st - 23^rd

Because ari arrived lately than scheduled from Singida due to road problems it meant that we couldn't visit all the friends in sports schools in the Mtwara region. It was decided that we would travel to Newala and Tandahimba and visit the 16 schools there who are sponsored by associations in Finland.

We set out one hour later than scheduled on the Sunday and hoped to arrive in Newala before the Arsenal game started. However, due to road works and diversions and an untimely flat tire we made it there for the start of the second half and seen all the goals. A good crowd of locals had come to watch the match and a lot of shouting between one set of supporters to the others.

The drive to Newala was bumpy and rough with Ari doing record speeds along the road. After the football in Newala we grabbed a bit to eat in a local restaurant. We talked about the coming days and what role each one of us would be filling. We left for bed early as we had an early start the next day and after some complications with the mosquito net which was only half the size for the actual bed we eventually fell asleep.

After a quick breakfast it was off to visit the schools. Annukka was the still photo lady for the day, Ari the presenter, Kanda would talk to the principals giving information about the association school, Chigo would be pumping the balls in which every school got 2 balls – one for football and the other for netball, and I was operating the video camera.

We visited 12 schools on the first day and most of us where very tired at the end of the day. All the children where very happy to see and so excited to receive balls for sports. Their enthusiasm was amazing and something that would never been seen in European children. At each school we recorded the school grounds, classrooms and especially the football and netball grounds. Some schools hadn't received the goals yet while others hadn't put the in place yet for one reason or another. In general most of the schools had the posts in place and the playing grounds where by and large in ok condition.

We managed to do most of the schools on the way to Tandahimba which meant that little back tracking would be done the following day. In one of the schools Michael (A.K.A Gervas) reversed into a tree and shattered the back window on the Land rover. After some cleaning we reached Tandahimba at around 5 that evening and after checking into our lodge we went for a small bit to eat. After having my first chips omelette the night before I had another one here which, was much better. While waiting for the food myself and Kanda played some pool on the local table in the bar.

After the meal a brief talk about the next day and starting time and everyone went to sleep. Unfortunately because the batteries for the camcorder was empty we had to hope that electricity would come back which would allow us to record the remaining schools the next day. We relaxed outside the lodge watching the stars and looking for shooting stars. Despite only been a quarter full moon it was still very bright outside. It was nice to relax outside with little mosquitoes around watching the stars. The temperature was noticeably warmer than in Newala but still not as hot as Mtwara. Fortunately the electricity came on later and enabled us to recharge everything.

The following day we visited the remaining four schools which the children where just so hysteric to see us. At one school we had to walk about 500m to start filming at the school sign post we walked from the school to the sign post and around 100 children followed us all the way there and back, signing, running and dancing. No wonder they where hysteric, three Mzungus which cameras and camcorder ; )

The same procedure for these schools was the same as the previous day and the children again where so happy just to receive the balls. After visiting all the schools we made our way back to Mtwara stopping to visit the Tandahimba lake on the way. We reached Mtwara around lunch time for the remainder of the day we had a small meeting in the office, few games of table tennis, a swim in the ocean and finished the day off with a meal at our host parents house eating Pilau.

15-21.01.2007

15- 21^st

School begins again after the break but we didn't go this week as they are just getting everything prepared once again after the long break. However, we had a lot of work to prepare in the office and some trips to the bush and other parts of Tanzania coming up soon. We went back to the girls training camp to see what work the coach was doing with them. The land rover was due for repairs this week so it meant it would be our last visit to see the girls for a while.

Also one of our friends returned from Europe this week. Jan, who comes from the Czech Republic, had spent the last 3 months away and will only be a short time again now in Mtwara until his project finishes. We arranged to meet up on Monday in Bondeni over some beers and food and talk about his Christmas in Europe. He seemed to be happy to be back in Mtwara but this was only because he was leaving for good soon.

We have a new house girl at the moment. Our usually one is in Dar to spend time with the family so the current one will only be a short time with us. At the moment the house has an unwanted visitor – a rat. Bright is trying all methods to get rid of it. At the moment poison inside a piece of kingfisher is his latest method but unsure yet whether it has succeeded or not.

The weather now is once again hot and very humid. The sweat comes straight away in the morning and when sitting for dinner in the evening time it is at time unbearable. The other day Bright was lying outside in on the bed sleeping while Jennifer was in the garden planting trees. I was thinking that this would be the other way around in Europe.

After being illegal for all of last week we eventually got to met to the immigration officer who joked that he would have to arrest us. The permits where still not ready despite him saying in early December that the permits would be ready and waiting for us in Mtwara. This situation is becoming really annoying now, after 4 months we still do not have any solution and nobody seems to know what is going on.

The officer said that we would have to go to DAR and pay for the permits there and get them maybe on the same day. I don't understand why there is a immigration office in Mtwara if they are not able to issue immigration papers, this centralisation makes the system even slower. We got another one month extension to our holiday visa again and contacted Ari to find out the situation as he was slowly making his way from Singida to Dar.

Once in Dar, Ari went to the contacts which the officer in Mtwara had given us however the people in DAR didn't know anything about the papers there and a quick phone call from Ari back to the officer Mtwara who stated he would have to check whether or not the papers had in actual fact been sent yet??? This is the same person who said they would be ready 4 weeks ago. After some time Kanda went to the office here in Mtwara and was shown receipt that the paperwork had been sent to DAR. Ari sent more time trying to clear up the situation with a sly threat if there wasn't any sign of permits tomorrow. The officers in DAR are claiming that they have no idea about the paperwork at all even though it has been sent since September 2006. Ari went back Friday morning as he believed he would then be able to pick up the permits, but they still didn't find the papers. Another half threat about a visit to the vice-presidents office seemed to work well and they went quickly back to look again for the papers. Ari will return to DAR the following week so we will see if the papers are ready ; )

We had a meal with Jan on Wednesday night. He invited us around for his speciality ragu and pasta with red wine. We where supposed to have Tuna fish but Jan ate it all the night before due to a lack of electricity. He had also prepared this evening to be electricity free and when he had made the fire and prepared everything the electricity came back on. However, Jan continue to work as though there was no electricity which was quite funny in the end.

Ari eventually arrived with Daudi from Singida. A similar project to SDA is being established in Singida and Daudi will stay around in Mtwara for some time to learn about the ins and outs of the NGO and Kanda will then travel with Daudi to Singida in February to see how things are running there. On Saturday we organised a game between Mzungus and Bantus in Shangani on Saturday morning at 10. Probably wasn't the best time to play the game but we managed anyway. A good turn out for both teams meant that at least the Mzungus wouldn't become so tired in the extraordinary heat. We played in total four periods of 15 minutes. Unfortunately the Mzungus lost on the day 8 – 6 and where very tired for the rest of the day. Prizes where given out to the best 5 players from both teams and pens where distributed to all of those present as well as a bag of mangos. The reason for the early morning floorball game was because in the evening Liverpool where playing Chelsea and a game we (myself and Ari) didn't want to miss. We went to watch at Mikindani and a few other Mzungus tagged along in the land rover which for this journey resembled more of a Daladala. After some problems at the beginning Ari the technician got the football going. The game was good from a Liverpool point of view and unfortunately for Chigo had to listen to me and Ari shouting at him for most of the game. Liverpool won 2 -0. After the game some took a swim in Mikindani bay. For Daudi it was his first time in the ocean. This was followed by a trip to Bondeni for chips and chicken. The food was nice after such a long and hot day. It was decided that going to Bandari for dancing, not all of the group joined due to tiredness and sickness. In the end Ari, Jan (Czech Rep.) and myself ended up in Bandari after a quick beer at a local bar near the centre of town. After a lot of dancing with locals and shaking of the hips and other body parts it was time to go back home. A good night enjoyed by all and a great cultural experience to remember.

8-14.01.2007

8^th - 14^th

Illegal officially now in Tanzania. Residents permits taking so long to process the whole notion of actually needing one now is a farce. We are already over half way through our stay here and still no word regarding our permits. When we left Mtwara at the start of December with a one month extension we where told that the permits would be ready for us when we return. Upon our return we where told after Christmas. Now we have been trying to get in contact with the boss who has not been in the office. We tried to get going all this week but it failed due to our other commitments in Ziwani. Fortunately, the police didn't arrest us so we slept peacefully.

Our football camp in Ziwani which was due to start on the 3^rd was rescheduled for the 8^th however, when we arrived at the office which, was meant to have dealt with these issues on Monday morning it was clear we where going nowhere today. The problem was all the officers had gone out to check whether the secondary schools where in good condition for the start of the new school year. This meant that the transport which had been promised was no longer available. After a long time trying to negotiate a good deal and waiting for the necessary officials to come back from their journey, it was agreed that we would be give petrol money and we would, ourselves, have to collect the girls from Mtwara rural and take them to Ziwani. Not an ideal solution but the only one that was remaining. So the camp would then start on the 9^th – hopefully.

The following day we arrived at Ziwani where some of the girls had been collected. In total we had 28 girls from 54. The accomodation and food was not enough for 54 girls so it became evident that the girls we had now would be the ones selected to go to Finland. Its unfortunate for the other girls who could not make it to Ziwani due to the officials been not organised. We had to get the total number of girls down even further to a total of around 22. A game was organised and the names of those girls that impressed was recorded. Those who didn't make the final list of 22 where given – football boots, socks, t – shirt and a bag full of pens.

We trained at Ziwani for a few days, but due to the awful sleeping conditions we were trying to find a new sleeping place for the girls. Training went well and as the week went on it became evident the girls where quick learners and of course motivation was not needed because all knew about the possibility of going to Finland. Different sessions involved working on different skills. As the girls are not used to do regular exercise for long periods over a number of days consecutively they became quickly tired therefore meaning sessions generally lasted around 3 – 4 hours. We tried to encourage the girls to drink plenty of water and highlighted the reasons for this, some listened others didn't.

After two days at Ziwani, new accommodation was found about 15 minutes drive in the Mtwara urban direction. The sleeping facilities where a lot better but the pitch was not great and one of the goal posts was in danger of falling and possibly killing someone as it was not the regular goalposts but mental posts, almost rusted the whole way through and supported in the middle by a piece of wood. Fortunately during our time there nobody was hurt because of the post. Again we had a number of training sessions organised over the remainder of the week we spent there. As Friday was a holiday we had a short session and organised the girls into two teams. They both played really well, some remembering the skills picked up during the week and using them to go effect. It also really good now that the girls have settled with one another and are no longer making “kissing noises” to get attention but rather calling out names and shouting for the ball. In the first number of days they were a bit nervous which could be seen by how they where kicking and controlling the ball. But once we moved to the new place they seem to enjoy it a lot better and their football as a result improved. In the end the team lead by me beat Kanda's team 6 -0. The girls stamina and energy levels are also increasing. So over the next number of weeks when we don't have training it will be interesting to know whether they are still practising.

On Saturday, a party was organised at a local Mzungu house, Philip. He had organised a cheese and wine party. It was more than just that as he had been working very hard for the previous two days with Kate, another Mzungu, cooking various dishes for all the guests. I was wondering where the cheese had come from but Philip had been travelling recently so had taken it from DAR. The food was great and for desert he had Malteesers. It had been ages since I had some of these and it was so nice to try them again. Some luxury goods in Mtwara.

Also the really good thing about the party was the wine, Philip had made his own wine in various taste. One in pineapple which was really good. All the guests had a really good time and was nice to meet up with everyone again after the Christmas break. We all talked about been back in Mtwara again and our safari's around the Northern Circuit.

2007!!

1^st - 7^th January 2007

The new year started slowly due to the large downfall of rain – apparently though it was only the short rains – which lasted for nearly seven hours at a time! It meant that we had to spend most of our time in the house. Thankfully we had electricity the new gas project provides electricity through TANESCO most of the evenings. Although there are still some areas of Mtwara that are still not receiving electricity. I was also able to go and watch a few football games due the rain intervals as Liverpool matches where been kicked off at an earlier time.

Our first week back to work after the new year should have seen us going to the training. However some issues they hadn't dealt with before the Christmas holidays meant that the camp, food and transport was not ready to leave this week. Instead the camp was now scheduled to leave the following week.

We celebrated a birthday party at our house, Harrison's brother – Jackson who was in Mtwara for the Christmas period. The house had made once again a lot of food and invited some of the local children around to join in the celebrations. The birthday parties take more or less the same format as other ones. Its just a little less formal than adult parties. The funny thing was that come the time when we would eat the food, the adults would take first while the children would wait until we had finished. However, when the children got near the food they took so much that I was so shocked at the portions they could eat, some even managing a second helping. No wonder the adults went first then.

Also when giving the presents, the parcelled ones would be handed to the birthday boy whereas money would be placed underneath a plate in front of him. Also giving birthday cards doesn't seem to be a big tradition either. Here only one card is bought and everyone who attends the party signs it whereas back home the person could expect to receive a lot of cards, also if money was to be the gift, it would be placed in the card and not shown in public.

Thankfully the weather returned to normal for the remainder of the week and we went to the beach to get some sun while getting funny looks from the locals probably wondering what we are doing. At the office we have also been playing a lot of table tennis. Annukka's father bought the set from Arusha for SDA. So we can organise tournaments in the near future. We have been playing most days and fortunately I have been winning most of them.

Safari story part 3

Once in Mtwara we were again faced with immigration duties. Despite the fact that I had been for a full 2 week before leaving Mtwara everyday at the Immigration office so got to know everyone's face they still wanted to see my passport. I “kindly” refused to show it. We stayed with Annukka's parents in Southern Cross Hotel in Shangani. There was only one other family staying at the resort so again we had the feeling of privacy which companied us for most of the safari.

We had our own little chalet with two bedrooms each with an ensuite, living room between the bedrooms and a small balcony. The room had a great sea view and the sound of the waves at night crashing on the rocks was fantastic. We quickly made the room feel more like Christmas I stuck some balloons on the wall and decorated the fake plastic plant that was in the chalet. Anni had asked for a tree to be delivered to the room so we now had two Christmas trees.

Our time in Mtwara was relaxing which was the whole point for Annukka's parents to come here. We did do some trips to the market in town and had a meal and a small walk around Mikindani on Christmas eve. We tried to organise a Joulu Sauna (Christmas Sauna) at the housing project but due to a lack of wood and other people showing a total lack of respect for the place we passed on the idea. The meal in Mikindani was very nice, according to Reino people need to eat especially well at Christmas time. We ordered a four course meal and afterwards we where very full. Our punctual taxi man – Hasani arrived as usual on time and made our way back to Mtwara. We celebrated of course Finnish style which meant that for me I got to open the presents a day earlier. On Christmas day we were invited to our host family for a meal and they had cooked some much good food it was great to be able to show the parents in-law some local traditional food. They had made lots and lots of pilua, cooked bananas, rice, potatoes, meat with different sauces and a lot more. Again we where very full and let shortly after giving presents to our host family.

On St.Stephens Day/Tapanin päivä we made another trip to market as Annukka's mum wanted to get some last minute shopping done before they left the following day. Come the 27^th the parents where all ready for fly off once again to DAR. They would leave the next day back to Finland. We said our goodbyes at Mtwara airport and they proceeded to the check in desk.

It was strange to be back in Mtwara after so long away, the place felt a little bit different. I guess after seeing so many different places during the three weeks. It can easily be forgotten what “home” is like. Anyway we quickly slipped back into the routine of Ugali and beans for lunch again.

Over the next couple of days we relaxed also as we where a bit tired for all the travelling around. I was also spending a lot of time burning the pictures to CD so as to have a back up. We met up with Sanna and Tiina again before the left for their safari. For New Years we relaxed around the house. Most of our friends where in other parts of Tanzania so we spent time trying to beat each other in Bao – the traditional Tanzania board game. Come midnight we heard the fireworks going off and as we had already been awake since the early hours that day we fell asleep shortly afterwards. Karibu 2007!

Safari story part 2

The nightly rain showers made driving around difficult and at times I thought the jeep would topple over or get stuck. But of course a safari here wouldn't be one without getting stuck in the mud and our driver obliged although I am sure it wasn't on purpose. As we where going nowhere and with no rocks or sticks in sight, myself and Annukka's dad got out and helped push the car away from the mud, it worked and we set off on our sightseeing again. Thankfully though the jeep didn't topple at any stage.

We left behind the serengeti having seen a lot of different and new animals. We moved onto the Ngrongoro crater stopping beforehand in a Maasai village. While there they sang for us a welcoming song, took us into their homes to see the insides, told us about their culture (the women make the houses while the men direct the cattle), we saw a school where the children are learning swahili and english but are not taught maasai language. After taking some pictures of the local people and the women buying so locally made items we made our way to the crater campsite (Simba A).

We set up the tents just in time before the rain. It was noticeably colder here than anywhere else I have been in Tanzania... almost like Ireland... cold and raining! We set out early the following morning for our descent into the crater. The drive down we could just make out the pinkish colour of flamingoes but there didn't appear from far off to be much of anything down there. However I was proved wrong and we can again a host of animals and the final animal to complete the “Big 5” the Rhino. We also saw a herd of lions really close with cubs which was class. The weather wasn't great, mainly overcast but the scenery was fantastically green however all the rain makes driving difficult so again the roads where not in great condition driving around the crater. After some hours here it was time to finish the safari and get back to Arusha. The drive back up the crater was a bit more daunting than coming down it, in the distance we could see other cars driving up on gravel roads with a 100 metre drop to their right, hoping it wasn't going to be our road it was... however all is well and we made it to the top in one peace. We had our final lunch inside the tent which was kind of nice for the cook to organise it like that and then made our way to Arusha, stopping off briefly in shops to buy some last minute souvenirs at ridiculous prices.

We spent the night in the Impala hotel which was a surprise courtesy of our safari host, an early Christmas present. We immediately took a hot shower which felt great after sleeping rough for so many nights. A bit to eat late and early to bed as we had a flight to Mtwara the following morning. Our safari driving greeted us in the morning and lead us to the Kilimanjaro airport we made our way to the check in desk only to be told they could not find mine or annukka's name but they could find her parents. We where then told we would have to wait until checking in finishes and see if there were any seats for us then. When check in had finished we were informed that only 1 seat was free but they are going to ask the pilot whether I can go in the jump seat in the cockpit at there are no other seats. I was a bit excited at the idea of sitting in the jump sit so temporarily lost my frustrating, it quickly came back again as there was no jump-sit on the plane. They issued Annukka the one remaining ticket and she went to join her parents in the departure lounge. They then had to decide what they were going to do with me. I told them that I needed to be on this flight going to Mtwara. They came up with some suggestions one which was to fly me with AirTanzania to DAR. However, again I told them I am going to Mtwara so is there going to be an airplane waiting for me in Dar to fly me to Mtwara? Of course it would be much easier for the Kilimanjaro airport staff to get me out of Arusha and let the people in Dar think what to do with me. After some time and asking more questions they said that they are asking someone from the plane to come off to let me on. At first people where reluctant to come off but in the end someone did. I was quickly issued a handwriting boarding card, lacking all the necessary security details and made my way to the plane where we eventually took off – 50 minutes later than scheduled.

6-31.12.2006

We left Mtwara for a Christmas break on the 6^th December. Upon arriving in DAR we went later that evening to celebrate the Finnish Independence day party at the consulate. It was strange to be surrounded with Finns once again, it was almost like being back in Finland. After been able to freely speak Finnish in Mtwara knowing that nobody will understand I had to watch what I was saying this time around. The party went well some people dance, others ate the finger food and others stood around chatting with old friends.

While in DAR we had nothing else special to do, we where waiting for Annukka's parents to come and join us the following week. They would stay for over 2 weeks with us so we had a small plan of some travelling with them. When they arrived we left the following day from DAR to Zanzibar and spent three nights in a new resort just north of stone town called Hakuna Matata owned by a German couple. The food was great, apparently the best on the island. We got lucky with our time there no rain, sun shining and the only ones at the resort meant great service. The reason why we where the only ones was because the resort hadn't officially opened yet for the high season but for some reason they accepted us to come during this time. While on the island we took the spice tour which was so interesting, our guide describing all the spices indigenous and imported to the island. After three hours of walking, listening and tasting we left the spice farm behind and started our stone town tour. Our guide taking us to most of the museums in the town, however the slave chamber for me was the most impressionable as being in the chamber gave a real sense of what it must have been like years ago.

After this long and tiring day the final day in Zanzibar was spent relaxing around the resort which was one of the main reasons for Annukka's parents to come in the first place, away from the cold and miserable Finland to the hot and sunny Tanzania.

The next day we left for Arusha where we would then begin our 5 days/4 nights safari. We began with Lake Manyara which was great for allowing us to get so close to the animals especially elephants. We spent several hours driving around and saw so many animals it was great. We where until to go to the Hippo pool and hot springs due to the rains but it didn't deter us we would any way seen plenty of hippos later in the safari. After we finished in Mayara the following day involved a drive to Serengeti via Ngorongoro. The drive up to the crater top gave a great panoramic view of the mountains and fields all of which was so green due to the recent rain showers. We arrived in Serengeti and was amazed at the vast plains. I know its a saying that is well worn but it was something I didn't expect. We had a few driving hours remaining for the day and we made the most of it seeing a leopard eating an antelope in a tree, a cheetah resting on a rock both of which where the highlights for that day, sandwiched in between we saw more hippos, monkeys, Impalas, Wildebeests, Buffaloes, Gazelles plus a lot more.

We spent a total of 2 nights in Serengeti sleeping at a public camp site. It was a surreal feeling that the animals could simply just come up to our tent if they feel like it, although this happening is extremely rare. During the rest of our time here we saw the same leopard in the same tree relaxing and then jumping up onto another tree which was lucky. Lots of elephants, more hippos, lots of Impalas and Topis, (which are similar to antelopes only different colour skin), giraffes, a turtle and we saw lions. It was great to see them which capped a great trip to the Serengeti. They where sitting on rocks just relaxing in the evening sun. The lioness sitting up like a statue with the sun reflecting off her was amazing.