11.11.2006

On the 11^th of November a group of us, Mzungus went for a day trip to the Ruvuma river it was a great opportunity to see another part of Mtwara, perhaps see some animals and get to see the Northern side of Mozambique. We started off early in the morning or at least intended to only for African timing to once again play a role. In total there was eight of us who made the journey and we had hired the driver for the day and paid the petrol also.

We eventually set off around eight in the morning collecting the others as we made our way slowly out of Mtwara urban. We all had taken some food with us so a small picnic would be taken once we reach the river bank. The weather was very hot even for so early in the morning, and sun tan lotion was constantly being applied throughout the day in order to avoid getting burnt but the strong sun.

We opened the top of the land rover so as to allow as much air to get in as possible and also to be able to stand up and take pictures as we went along and saw various interesting things. Once the seating and standing arrangements had been arranged we made our way for the river and passed many happy screaming children along the way all wanting a wave from the Mzungus.

After some time we arrived at the border control office and none of us had taken our passports with us as we were not leaving the country only going down to the see the border. After our driver did some talking and also Maaike (a volunteer doctor) we were aloud to pass through without any problems. As we were leaving the area a local man came and asked us if we would like to rent a boat for some time and go out on the river, I was unaware of this option so it sounded like a good idea, although I had some reservations as Hippos can be quite aggressive and the river also contains crocodiles. Once we arrived at the bank we had a small picnic while we negotiated a price with the man for the use of the boat and a driver. Although they were eager to get a good price we eventually came to an agreement in which all where satisfied.

The boat was ready and we set off unsure of what to expect but it didn't take long until we say a bloat of hippos together in the lake about nine of them just bathing and relaxing in the water. We kept our distance so as not to disturb them. We made our way to the peninsula and had a small walk around on some very hot sand. Once back on the boat we made our way slowly back where we started. We went closer this time to the hippos which they didn't like and quickly went under the water only for one to appear quite close to the boat. The locals where not keen to see their boat turned over so we made a quick escape to keep our distance after some time the hippos reappeared together when we where further away.

Once on land again we took a small walk along the river bank to see the houses, although the weather at this stage was very hot so most of us took shelter in the shade and had some food and drank plenty of water. It also gave us some time to enjoy the sites and the strange feeling that we where standing in Tanzania but looking across into Mozambique. After everyone had returned from the walk we made our way slowly back to Mtwara, although we decided on the way back to have a quick stop in Mikindani.

In mikindani we all had a cold drink and relaxed on the upper terrace enjoying the site and the shade from the sun. After some time we decided to spend more time here and ordered some food. While waiting for it to be prepared some people took a walk to the old boma while others stayed in Ten Degrees enjoying the cold drinks.

Once the food arrived we all ate quietly as we were quite tired from the heat of the sun and hungry so the chips and deep fried calamari was just what the doctor ordered. After we had allowed the food to settle we then made our way back again to Mtwara. It was then we realised that our attempts of avoiding getting sun burnt was to no avail as most of our faces and other parts of our body where quite red.

It was an enjoyable day and we were all very tired once the evening had arrived. Thankfully we had electricity when we arrived back to the house so a cold shower felt great after the days heat.

5.11.2006

After a quiet enough week at work our weekend was very exciting. On Friday night we went out with our host parents for a drink or two in a nearby kiosk/bar. While walking there it was the first time I noticed bats flying around in the sky! Maybe the full moon had something to do with it. Then Bright casually said yes they sleep in one of the mango trees in the garden! Luckily they are not after Mzungus but rather mosquitoes so they are friendly ones. After jokingly asking Bright are they any bats that go after cockroaches he gave me some special chalk, designed by the Chinese (so it must be good), that will keep the cockroaches away. The idea is that you draw lines on the doors or on the ground and the dust from the chalk effects the cockroach and kills them. I was half tempted to put some on myself but thought better of it. Unfortunately Bright only gave us one stick of chalk, hopefully that is enough and now our once brown bedroom door is covered in white lines and hopefully the cockroaches can read because I wrote “Stop go back” on the ground.

On Saturday we relaxed in the Finnish housing project area by going for a swim. We had hoped to play some tennis but we only had one tennis racket, then we thought we could play table tennis as we have the rackets, but no balls! We done a little work out in the gym and then went to the pool to relax and read some magazines and saw Ari’s face in one of the Suomen kuvalehtis! I was wondering why there is so many of the same magazine here. In the evening time we were invited to a house/disco party. Upon arriving we found out we were the only ones invited by our two neighbour wazungus. We had some food and they told us that the hospital students have organised a party for the new students so we are invited go to, a bit of a surprise but along we went anyway. It was good fun, the music was loud and the locals had their own style of dancing ; )

On Sunday we had planned to relax go on a bike trip around the back roads of Mtwara. In the morning our host mother Jennifer said that there is a wedding in their church today and that we are invited. This was the first time we had heard about it and the wedding was due to start in 3 hours. We went along to the church as it is more or less open for everyone to visit. The ceremony was quite long with the people that were taking part in the church walking really slowly to the altar. The wedding was due to begin at 11 but due to African timing it started probably at 12.30. During the ceremony there was a lot of singing and shouting from the guests, AMEN!!!! One funny incident happened during the ceremony when the uncle of the bride was invited to the front to say some words regarding his niece and the future in law. The only thing was that he had forgotten the name of the groom and had to be reminded! Not a good sign for the future son in law!

After about two hours in the church we left for home to relax until the reception, during the church service we were told that they had some invitations for us to join the evening session. The MC had informed us that the reception will start exactly at four o’clock, if anyone keeps time in Tanzania. Bright informed us that nobody keeps the time here and how right he was as the evening session didn’t start until at least 17.30.

Only those that contributed to the wedding, that is, have given money to the couple, are invited to the reception. After another slow walk to their seats the MC was eager to take over the show as a result of the two microphones which he had in his hand. The MC was talking through out the reception telling jokes and welcoming not only the locals but also the foreigners (Wazungus) saying that it was an internationally wedding also because the groom is from Malawi. After some family introductions and welcoming, it was time for the cake cutting which came before the meal. The cake is divided among the family with different layers going to different families. But nothing is giving to the guests. Also the bride and maid of honour when giving a piece of cake to the groom and best man respectively they must curtsy as a sign of respect for them. Also when the bride was giving a piece of cake to her new mother in law she went down on her knees and handed the cake to her while on her knees then stood up when she took the cake, although the groom didn’t have to go down on his knees.

After this the wedding couple gave out same sweets to all the couples for their contribution in which the MC continued to talk throughout the event telling the DJ to stop the music, put in music louder, lower, change the music etc. When the sweets were distributed we where then invited for food. There was so much food available that the plate was not big enough for everything and interestingly we had to use our hands for it as there was no cutlery available. But we are well skilled in eating with our hands now.

After the food was eaten it was time for the giving the wedding gifts to the couple. Due to our last minute notice about our participation in the wedding we quickly bought a card and put some money inside. It was well organized how the presents giving should be done. There was a basket for cards and loose money and the gifts where giving to couple. I am not sure what was happening but the MC was calling certain people up to give the presents and certain people would then make a speech about what present they are giving and talk a little about the couple. This of course was preceded by a long walk in from the front door with the gift. After people had given their gifts they left while others stayed around until the very end.

One thing that was different from this wedding and European weddings was that there was not a lot of dancing, but maybe this has something to do with the church as it was a Seven Day Adventists wedding. With Kanda getting married in two weeks which is a catholic wedding it will be interesting to see the difference, although I am sure the time keeping will be the same.

3.11.2006 - In the Kitchen

With the boss this week in Songea for his wedding send off we could relax and take it easy in the office, well not really. We have some tournaments coming up and some planning for the sports day and regional sports tournament which we have been doing this week.

We managed to finish the storeroom after emptying all the boxes and putting the clothes and sports equipment onto the shelves it took some time as there was a lot of boxes and quite much organising needed to be done.

Recently we have been eating some mangos as this is now the season for them. They are really delicious to taste but the difficulty is afterwards when it traps between your teeth, some hard work is required with the toothpick to remove the mango.

The electricity problem has unfortunately returned again. After having it more or less for one week straight we now don't have it at all. Bizzarly a couple of nights ago, all of our neighbours had electricity and we still didn't, i think they is a conspriacy against the Mzungu!

The temperature is steadily rising each day but becomes most notably at night time as it is really hot when trying to sleep, fortunately a cold shower before bed helps the situation but if water runs out then we'll have to refer to the finnish summer house style of showering – bucket and cup, while dodging the cockroaches!

Last week we took to cooking in the kitchen, it was the first time for me as Annukka is better in the kitchen than I am. We cooked, or at least tried to cook our version of pancakes, the first task was to find the ingredients then trying to cook on a uneven frying pan and adjusting the temperature from underneath as the charcoal burns away. In the end we managed to make 6 or 7 good ones in about 3 hours, a record i am sure for something. The next morning we were firmly put in our places and the Aunt who is living with us had made a whole pile of ”pancakes” in what i am sure was a fraction of time that we took.

We eventually found out later that the word for pancake in swahili it Kitumbua which means rice cake. The word for our pancakes is Chapati wa maji. Anyway it was good fun to prepare something in the kitchen and we had a bit of an audience when doing it. Always eager to impress I took to flipping the pancake in the frying pan, luckily it didn't land on the ground but back on the frying pan... i didn't want to spend another three hours making more pancakes!

Trip to Peninsula - 28.10.06

On the 28.10 we took a little trip on a boat from the fish market to the near by peninsula. We arrived at the market at the right time as a boat was waiting there about ready to leave as it was nearly full, a lot more people later, a couple of bags of rice, a few more bikes, one man emptying the water which had accumalated under the boat and then we were ready to leave...

As we were leaving the clouds where looking very dark and a storm was coming soon, the boat had to go around on a long journey in order to get where it was going as the head wind made the journey difficult. We arrived on the other side with no problems. Luckily the storm clouds where moving sideways and not coming head on so we had a good view of the rain falling over Mtwara while we where sitting on the sunny beach, taking photos.

We were accompanied by Maaike and Tariq, two other Mzungus, so we were in good company. After sitting for a while we continued to walk to the end of the beach area where we were met by some young boys who followed us for the rest of the day telling us where we should go and where not to go as its not safe due to thieves or snakes, which was really helpful.

After some time the weather was so hot we relaxed in the shade for some time and had a small picnic with some fruit and cashew nuts and of course water. Af a while we continued our journey onwards where the young boys took us to the other side of the peninsula area, it isn't so wide but there is a way of getting there without getting into trouble. We arrived to see some men casting out nets for sea merchants which they had a lot of. I was hoping to take a picture of them but they refused, Maaike traded in some water for picture which they kindly accepted. We continue onwards and tried some of the cashew nut fruit which was rather tasty and made our way back to the boat.

After waiting for sometime in the boat until it fills up we eventually sailed by to Mtwara fishmarket alot easier the return journey than the outward journey as the boat could go straight to the harbour.

Malaria - 25.10.06

After our trip to Dar we where quickly back into the grove of things as there was a Volleyball tournament for the secondary schools being played. It was really interesting to watch the players some have great ability to jump so high and was good to see also the girls teams showing some great technique. In the end we had really good prizes to give away for the teams that finished in the prize places.

My sister has been sending SDA pens from Ireland that have been rejected, one package everyday, so we have been giving out those pens as prizes for the best players of each game and also quite many to the third places teams for both boys and girls. It was interesting to see the reaction of one boy when he got the pen, he ran away to his teammates and showed it off, he was really happy just to receive this pen, which meant he had some bragging rights with his other teammates.

This week has been quite slow as not only are the Muslims celebrating the end of Ramadan so there has been loud music for the last couple of nights but also because Annukka AND I both had malaria! We have had some symptoms but thought it couldn't be malaria as the symptoms where not that bad but in the end we had a test and Annukka beat me as she had 4 parasites compared to my 3 in our bodies. After a quick trip to the shop to stock up on juice and water we went to bed to rest and let the tablets take care of the malaria.

After a couple of days rest (or trying to rest) another trip to the hospital and yes, thankfully all the parasites where gone this time. Unfortunately due to this untimely illness we missed a trip with Kanda and Sofia to Songea to celebrate their wedding send-off. Maybe we will take the trip another time during the year.

With no schools to visit and resigned to bed for the best part of three days we have been trying learn some more Swahili which hopefully we can remember it when the time comes. We have been lucky as the electricity has been on for most of the week so it hasn't been to hot in the bedroom at least we can have the fan on.

Also this week we have been tidying the storeroom. We got a fundi to install some shelves around the whole storeroom after we went through all the boxes sorting out the clothes we have been over the last two days putting the clothes and other sports equipment back inside, and it looks really good now. No mice or rats or any other strange animals to report living there.

Trip to DAR - 20.10.2006

After a busy week travelling to DAR it has been nice to settle once again in Mtwara. We were invited up for the annual Nordic sports day competition. Organised for the four Nordic countries to battle against each other in different events. The games had been going on all week but we arrived just for the final day... in order to get the medals and trophies, though unfortunately we got neither.

The finnish men (I include myself in this group – Honouary Finn) played against the Swedish in the bronze medal match in football. Unfortunately the result didn't go our way and we lost. I cannot remember the final score ; ) but i think it was a close match. I am still seeing nightmares about how Ari failed to score from less than one foot although he did manage to hit the post! I will not comment on my miss ; )

After that the girls played their bronze match against Denmark. It was a very tough game that went to penalties, the girls held their courage and won the bronze medal. We then participated in the swimming event followed by the Volleyball which was a grudge match, again ágainst Sweden, although this time it was the final match. The game went to the deciding set but Finland once again lost their neighbours 2 – 1. After these ”serious” games where finished the fun games started with ballon darts which Finland came second, wife carrying which Finland won, tea bag throwing and tug o' war in which Finland came third in both. In the end Suomi finished 3^rd which is better than finishing last. Unfortunately Sweden won the group so Finland must try harder next year to beat their neighbours.

After the games finished everyone met in Slipways for the evening party where we all ate and danced the night away, although some danced more than others (but I won't mention any names; ARI)

Sunday was a rest day and enjoying sauna. So nice but again when they knew I was a forgeiner they threw so much water on the stones... lisää löylyä! Monday was a busy day with Ari, we where lucky to meet some really important people working for the Government. We met the minister for Sport and also the Minister of Education, although that meeting nearly didn't happen due to the minister being in another meeting at the same time.

We also got to see some of the sites in DAR, although this didn't take to long. The noise from the people, traffic and mainly the generators was so loud, very different life than Mtwara. As we have become used to the quiet, relaxed life in Mtwara. DAR seemed very busy with so many Dalla Dallas on the street, yet they all manage to find their way into the centre and back out again.

It was a strange feeling to stay in DAR because with everything readily available in shops (acutal shops – Supermarkets!) it didn't feel like Africa it felt more European especially as there where also so many Wazungus around also. Although it was nice to taste other food than Wali and Ugali everyday. Mtwara feels more African with hardly any generators, no electricity, no running water some days, no supermarkets, it definately has a more African feel to it.

On Tuesday we went to visit the Kariakoo market area, which is just hectic!We had heard some of stories before going there so we didn't take much with us and unfortunately I had to leave the camera at the guesthouse. Nothing happened to us there but we didn't stay to long to find out if anything would, just a quick walk around the outside and inside stalls and headed back to the ”quiet” center.

We also managed a game of bowling with Ari while in DAR, Ari was on fire for most of it and hit 5 strikes in total in one game... smoking! Unfortunately while Ari was hitting the centre, I was making sure that bowling balls can easily fit down the side gullies!

We also visited the TingaTinga society near where we were staying and bought some early presents for our familys. It was difficult to decide what we wanted as there are so many options available and we would like to buy everything.

We left for Mtwara on Wednesday but not before we had an unexepected stop off in a nearby Island. We were wondering when checking in what does Hahana mean,we found out it was the name of the airport on this Island we landed... all we saw was moutains when we landed... this doesn't look like Mtwara.

Then I had some problems with the Immigration Officer in Mtwara. I seem to have all the problems but not annukka, its twice now. He wanted to know why I am working here in Mtwara if I don't have the proper paperwork. After Kanda and I explained to him that we have filled out the paper work in his office so why don't you tell me where the permits are! He still told us we must visit the office. Funnily enough I asked him do you remember Annukka and I from going to your office to fill out the forms, he said I only remember Annukka; of course you do!

We went to the Immigration office in town and Kanda again explained the story, the people in the office seemed surprised to see us as they remembered us and wondered what we are doing here explaining this story. One guy came to ask why I haven't paid a visa for entering Tanzania, after explaining slowly to him that Ireland and Tanzania have an agreement that we don't pay anything, he didn't believe went to check a list of countries on a wall that needed to pay a visa and surprise surprise Ireland wasn't there.

In the end we met the boss who, after Kanda explained that we had filled in the paper work here at this office, started complaining at the employees for relaxing and not following up on there work. So I am still able to say in Tanzania. I think the next time I see the Immigration guy at the airport he will remember me.

At the schools - 06.10.2006

After the first couple of weeks of getting settled and adjusting to the new cultural differences it has been good that we have started teaching in the schools this week. Albeit we have only taught in one school so far but we went well. We had over 60 pupils for the class and luckily not all of them where present! It has been good to finally get the first class over with as we now have a better idea of what we are dealing with and how much time to set aside for certain areas. It was strange at the end of the class all the children coming up touching us and shaking our hands, I know they are only showing their appreciation but still feels strange.

Last week we went to visit the schools just to let them know who we are. In total we will be teaching in three schools, two of which are in Mtwara urban and the other in Mikindani, so every Wednesday will be boarding the infamous Daladalas. On the Wednesday we made a trip to Masasi to make a check up on some stray goalposts that have seem to have been forgotten about. The journey took the whole day from early in the morning and arrived back home late at night. It was interesting to see another part of Mtwara and of Tanzania. We visited quite many schools during the day and in one school the classes had just finished to all the children came out to see who the white person was in the school ground. So I had nearly the whole school standing around me just looking at me wondering who I am and what I am doing here. For people who don’t like to be stared at they would not feel comfortable here but it doesn’t bother me, I just smile and try to say some Swahili which usually makes them laugh and then I wonder have I said the right thing or not!

From Thursday onwards we were traveling to and from Mikindani as there was a football tournament between the local schools taking place. It was quite a scene to see so many young children at the ground, some sitting, others running around the ground supporting their team, other children selling food and others just looking at me and Annukka. On the Friday I was a referee for one of the games. It was my first time referring a game involving 11 v 11. In the end the game went well, it was very fast and as both teams had nearly the same colour jerseys on it nearly impossible to judge who made a foul and quite amazing to see so many children invading the pitch when the teams score a goal and the mayhem that follows trying to get the children off the pitch!

I am happy to report that I have gotten used to the sounds of the roosters and the falling fruit on the roof, for the time being the dogs are in another neighbours garden so they haven’t been disturbing my sleep although I have started to hear a strange sound coming from a bird outside the window, impossible to describe over the internet but perhaps the other volunteers and those who have been to Tanzania will know what I am talking about.